Creality 3D Ender-7 3D Printer

Product Information

config => The klipper config file in the klipper directory (this has the presets required for ender7 from make menuconfig) Creality 3D’s Ender 7 uses the Bowden system with a metal dual gear extruder that allows stable and consistent equal feeding. The extruder also has double part cooling for fast and eco-friendly cooling. A customized nozzle is equipped with superior high volume flow for high-quality accelerated prints. Thanks to the core-XY structure, the print bed can move up and down the Z-axis which significantly improves the print quality of higher objects. The core-XY structure adds immense power and will also significantly boost the print speed. The Ender 7 achieves these speeds thanks to its 42-60 stepper motors that provide ample power and torque to the belts. In addition, to guarantee precise movement even at such high speeds, the Ender 7 features linear rail guides for the X and Y axis, which should provide smooth and stable operation and long-lasting durability.

Overall, I think the Ender-7 is a spectacular printer. It is a very rigid machine that you can push to some incredible speeds thanks to the linear rails and core-xy design. The advertised 250 millimeters per second is not just marketing talk. Combined with a decent print volume, you’ll be able to prototype large objects in record times with this printer. And if you slow it down just a little, you’ll have high quality prints. The extra features like power-loss recovery and filament runout detection are nice to have, even if they are a little buggy. The touch screen is pleasant to use, much more user friendly than the knob controls you normally find. It can be seen clearly that the print size of Ender-6 is bigger than the print size of Ender-7, The large size of the printer allows the possibility of creating models to a certain extent, without the small size of the printer making it difficult to design models. Maintaining the minimalist aesthetic seen in previous Ender machines, the Ender-7 features the familiar dual support frame that continues to provide print platform stability. As a 3D printer that focuses on printing speed, the ender7 does accomplish its goals in some ways. It produces quality prints and is reliable, easy to use, quiet and versatile. It will fit in just as well at design studios, prototyping companies, and architectural firms. Base, rear motorized and side static uprights, top frame with print-head, spool mount, print bed (not shown above)This firmware only works if you have the TH3D Ender 7 LCD Conversion kit installed. Get the conversion kit here: TH3D Ender 7 LCD Conversion Kit Board Compatibility # Load the file into the Slicer, select Ender 7 as your machine, PLA as the material (unless you’ve already chosen a different material) and then make any additional changes you might need for the specific print you’ve chosen. Most files have some notes about what settings to use. Performance The instructions are pretty clear, and all the tools and bolts are provided. So as long as you can turn an allen wrench, you shouldn’t have any issues assembling the machine. Concerns Improving the stability of the feed is good for the stability of the print quality and reducing the friction between the Teflon tube and the material

That's said there will be not much visible advance when you print small model. The printer speed comes out when you printer the big project, and it will goes smoothly when the printer speed accelerate. Each side of a triangle corresponds to only one corresponding angle and is unique. Therefore, the triangle is the most solid shape. Therefore, it is also the most mechanically stable. When the printer boots you may see the TH3D logo on your LCD, printers with low-end CPUs may not show a TH3D logo but all will show a Marlin screen with TH3D Studio showing on the version information. Reset your EEPROM! # Different printers/boards will have different .bin file names but they will all end in the .bin file extension.I made use of mainsailos for my raspberry pi zero 2W, that already has all dependencies required to build the firmware as well If you want to see the print settings for any of the prints I mentioned, you can find links to 3D Print Log in the description below. Aesthetically, I think the Ender-7 is a good looking printer. It looks great sitting on a table top, and since the bed only moves up and down, theres no risk of the bed hitting the wall or a passer by like some of the other Ender models. Sound wise, the motors are quieter than the fans when printing at normal speeds. When printing at higher speeds though, that’s when you’ll start to hear the motors. It is still comfortable enough to stay in the same room with it while it is printing. Partially Assembled Flashing your printer firmware is pretty easy once you go through the installation steps one or two times. We’ve simplified the firmware setup as much as possible so you don’t have to be an expert with code. Our firmware allows you to get more control over your printer, make repairs easier, add on upgrades, and really get into tuning your machine to make it print better.

Please note this is meant for intermediate to advanced users, and if you use these steps or files makes sure to thoroughly test your printer. The Ender-7 has a heated, silicon-carbide print bed, which is mounted cantilevered on the single lead-screw Z-axis. Four spring-loaded screws attach the bed to the z-axis, and allow for manual bed leveling. The Ender-7 comes partially assembled, and it took a little over an hour for me to assemble. Thankfully the most complicated piece, the core-xy gantry, was already completely assembled. All we have to do is screw the vertical pillars to the base, and bolt on the gantry. A few screws to attach the bed to the z-axis, and then some cable management and we are done! Currently, there are generally three sets of printing speed that 3D printers can support. The first set is has been grouped at around 40 to 50mm/s, while the second set prints at about 80-100mm/s. Meanwhile, the fastest set prints at around 150mm/s. Some printers may even print at a speed faster than 150 mm/s.” The review from All3DP. The Ender-7 also comes with various accessories in the box, including an 8gb micro-SD card, a micro-SD card to USB-A reader, a flush cutter, a scraper, and all the tools needed to assemble the machine. It also included half a kilogram of PLA filament, mine was the color white.If the build succeeds it is ready for you to upload to your printer. You will know if it was successfully built because it will show a SUCCESS in green at the bottom of the window in Visual Studio Code. Example of what a successful compile looks like. Your environment name may be different from what is shown above. And here’s the finished “ Little Happy Dumpster” (thanks @ddunmire !!) next to a better shot of the bunny. Thanks to its unique butterfly-shaped wing ducted cooling fan, the new Ender also draws in 169% more air than previous models, providing the cooling needed to ensure print quality, while its customized nozzle can hold up to 50mm³ inside its melt for smooth feeding, even at high printing speeds. The extruder fan allows a more stable feed. High-speed material double fans are designed in a butterfly-shaped wing channel. Compared to a single fan, two fans increase the total air volume by 169%, providing rapid cooling for high-speed printing models. The full metal extruder with double drive gear ensures a strong grip, greater and more even extrusion force and a continuous and stable feed.

According to the team of Creality, the design of Ender 7 references the appearance of "Temple of Athena Nike", the famous and historic temple in Greece, unlike the 4-column temple built with white marble on the left and right side, the Ender 7 only has 3 triangular distributed "Roman column" to support its top. Finally, be ready to embrace the learning curve. Watch your prints, learn to spot trouble signs and keep experimenting. The nozzle has a larger melting zone to help with such high speed printing. Melting is only half the battle though, once the plastic is printed, it also needs to be rapidly cooled down before the next layer is printed. This cooling is provided by dual cooling fans on either side of the hotend. The extruder also needs to be able to push enough filament, which the all metal, dual-geared extruder is easily able to keep up. It even has its own cooling fan to help prevent the extruder from overheating during long prints. The extruder also has a filament runout sensor, which will pause a print if you run out of filament. After you replace the filament, it’ll resume where it left off. First time using our firmware or having issues? Watch our video that is intended to clear up common mistakes people make when opening and using the firmware here: Unified 2 VSCode Tips for Noobs | EZTip #8 – YouTubeSo as mentioned before, this is my first time operating a 3D printer. The main things to convey is that I can’t compare and contrast with other consumer models (as I haven’t used anything else), and that all of the info in this review is based on figuring it out as I went along. There are a myriad of resources online where you can troubleshoot issues, find recommendations, and browse files that are ready to print and I spent a good deal of time doing just that. I definitely know more now than I did at the start, and there seems to be no bottom to how far down the rabbit hole you can go. Once set, you can use the on-screen adjustment area to further adjust distance up or down as a whole. If you hear your print head start to drag on one of the corner extremes of your print, you’ll need to use the corresponding wheel to make an adjustment if you only want to adjust for that corner. To be clear, I didn’t expect the Ender 7 to just work straight out of the box and then remain so, but I also wasn’t expecting the amount of patience and troubleshooting I’ve had to employ. For example, one of the recent prints I ran needed to have the Z axis raised around 0.03mm every couple layers. By the time the print was finished the print head was adjusted almost a full 1mm higher than at the beginning. I’ve yet to find where I can adjust the amount the Z moves with each step.